Sunday was our day for Pepper Water, a South Indian dish called Dal Rusum. Mama being from the south and Father from the North, coupled with the fact that we traveled all over the Indian subcontinents as Military brats, gave us a whole range of Indian cuisine to sample. Further, my husband being in the Indian Air Force enhanced that culinary adventure further for me.
Rusum was one of our favorite meals growing up. Cook would fix a whole lot of it under Mama’s tutelage. It was served with plain boiled rice and pepper chops. The combination was just plain yummy!
When fixing rusum, be sure to have two 5-6 quart pots and a sieve handy to strain the rusum. Also keep a large skillet or frying pan nearby for tempering. You will need them when boiling the lentil and when tempering it.
Cooking rusum can be tricky when making it the first time. To make things easier for you, have all your ingredients ready before you start. Separate the ingredients in steps 1-4. It will make things less confusing for you.
Dal Rusum (Pepper Water)
Rusum (Pepper Water) is a South Indian dish made from crushed pepper, tamarind, lentils, and spices.
Ingredients
- 1½ cups toor/arhar dal (pigeon peas)
- 1 tsp tumeric powder
- 1 heaped tsp tamarind paste
- 1 small pod garlic (or 8 large flakes)
- 20 whole peppercorns
- 1½ tsp whole cumin seeds
- 3 cups fresh cilantro (loosely packed cups)
- 2 medium dried red chilies (broken into bits)
- 1 tsp black mustard seeds
- 8 curry leaves (add more less to taste)
Instructions
Step 1: Preparing the Dal Water
- Boil the dal in 6-7 cups of water with salt and turmeric until the dal is tender. Approximately 35-40 minutes.
- Strain the dal through a sieve, pouring the dal liquid into another large pot. Set strained dal aside.
Step 2: Adding the Tamarind Paste
- Add the tamarind paste to the dal liquid. Taste for tartness and salt. It should be tangy but not sour. Bring to boil for about 5-10 minutes. Turn heat off.
Step 3: First Tempering / Tadka for Dal Water
- Coarsely grind the garlic flakes, cumin, fresh green cilantro, pepper corns, and turmeric powder. You can use your chopper, blender, or pestle.
- Heat about 2 tablespoons of cooking oil in a fairly large saucepan or skillet.
- Add the coarsely ground mixture and sauté for about a minute or until you can smell the aroma. It doesn't take long! Make sure to stir it often, so it does not burn.
- Pour this into the dal water. Put the pot back on stove and return to boil. Let it boil for about 10 minutes.
- Now strain the water again into the other empty pot, making sure to squeeze all the juice out of the tadka mixture so the essence of it is not lost. Your rusum is ready for the second tempering.
Step 4: Second Tempering of the Rusum
- Heat oil, and add ¾ teaspoon of mustard seeds. Be careful, as they splutter. Now add the 2 dry red chilies and the fresh curry leaves. Stir for about 10 seconds and then pour it over the pepper water.
Tempering / Tadkafor the Dal
- Same as the rusum. Heat the oil and add the remainder of the mustard seeds, red chilies, and curry leaves. Stir for about 10 seconds and then pour over the dal. Toss gently into the dal.
- Serve the rusum/pepper water and dal along with meat pepper fry and plain boiled rice.
Notes
To make your own tamarind paste: Take a golf-sized lump of freshly peeled tamarind, place in a cup of warm water, then extract the tamarind juice by squeezing the pulp out into a bowl, and then strain the thick juice.
Since different brands of Tamarind vary in tartness, start with a little less than the tamarind called for. If it’s not tangy enough for your taste, then adjust to your liking. If by some chance it gets too sour, don't panic. Just boil a half cup more of the lentil and add it to the Rusum.
I now prefer to add the strained dal back into the rusum after I strain the first tadka. That way, I do not have to temper the dal separately.
You may want to set the table with soup bowls and spoons for easier handling of the pepper water and rice.
You can also drink this as a spicy soup-especially when you have a cold or recovering from a bout of flu. The tanginess, garlic, cilantro and pepper takes care of any residual yukiness !! I remember mom used to have Cook fix it anytime we were recovering from being sick. It tasted so good!
One of my favorite meals is dal, plain boiled rice and pickle. While growing up, Mama had different dals for each day of the week. Each dal had its own seasonings, and we children had our own favorite dal.
Dals (including the larger legumes and beans) are a staple in the Indian diet. They are easy to prepare and add protein to vegetarian fare. The dals are mostly boiled with ginger and garlic and then tempered or seasoned (called Tadka, Baghar, or Chaunk) depending on which part of India you are raised. Dals taste great spooned over rice or eaten with rotis or any other flat bread.
I remember our Peace Corps friends, back in the 60s, said they survived on dal and rice until they got used to the other spicy food. There were no fancy restaurants in the villages and small towns where they worked, and with their meager salaries, lentils were cheap, wholesome and easy to prepare.
Dals (Lentils)
Dals are a staple of Indian diet and are packed with protein and nutrients.
Ingredients
- 1 cup lentils of choice
- 4 cups water (or 6-7 cups, depending on dal)
- 2 cloves garlic (chopped finely)
- 1 tbsp fresh ginger (chopped finely)
- 1 whole green Serrano chili (slit half-way)
- 1 tsp tumeric powder
- 1 tsp salt (or to taste)
For Tadka / Tempering
- 2 tbsp cooking oil
- 1 medium tomato (finely chopped, optional)
- ½ onion (finely chopped)
- 1 tsp garam masala (optional)
- ½ tsp red chili powder (optional, or to your taste)
- 2 tbsp fresh cilantro (finely chopped)
Instructions
- Sort and clean any grit in the dal. Rinse well. A friend, Lilani who is a fantastic gourmet chef, suggested washing and rinsing through a strainer so that any little bits of grit get washed away. But make sure you sort through the dal so you don't have any tiny stones that can crack someone's tooth!
- Ina deep saucepan or cooking pot, add the dal, chopped garlic, fresh chopped ginger, whole Serrano chili or a whole dried red chili, turmeric powder, and salt to taste.
- Add water and boil until it resembles a thick soup.
- Stir every 15 minutes. Initially, the scum(froth) will rise to the top, you can remove it with a spoon. Half cover the pot with a lid so that some steam escapes and the dal water does not overflow.
- Cooking time will vary from 45 minutes to 3 hours depending on the size and type of lentil.
- Set aside and use any of the following ways to temper the dals.
Basic Tadka / Tempering for All Lentils
- Heat oil in a small pan.
- Add onions and sauté them until half browned. About 4-6 minutes.
- Add tomatoes (if you like). Once they start to soften and curl, in about 3-4 minutes, turn off the heat and add the spice powders. Stir a minute or two and pour over the cooked dal.
- Stir the dal and let the spices cook for another 3- 5 minutes to absorb the flavors of the tadka. Turn off the heat and let the dal rest for 5 minutes.
- Pour the dal into a deep dish and garnish with chopped green Cilantro.
- Serve with cooked white rice and a vegetable or a spicy meat dish and pickle.
- The lentils are poured over the rice. If you are eating it with roti, flatbreads or bread, then pour the lentils into individual cup-sized dishes for easy dipping or the use of a spoon.
Notes
You can vary the seasoning by eliminating the onions or tomatoes and just season it with the spices.
I use different seasonings for different lentils, as you will see when you check my other dal recipes, but there are no hard and fast rules. The lentils should be the texture of a hearty soup, blended but not mushy.
We are on our famous cross-country trip across the hot and heated summer plains of Northern India, making our way to the cool hills of Jammu and Kashmir. It has been a long ride from our night stop at Ambala in Punjab. It is only mid-morning, but the sun is bearing down strong and hard. Hot gusts of dust hit us from time to time. We plan to make a pit stop at Ludhiana, which is about 65 miles away from Ambala. The roads are rough and the going slow. It is a busy highway, with the laden public carriers (trucks with merchandise) swerving dangerously close. We call them Public Killers as there are involved in so many fatal road accidents.
Finally, we arrive at a much-needed stop. Mama orders us all tall glasses of sweet lassi, a yogurt drink from a Halwai. Loosely translated, a halwai is a confectioner who makes Indian sweets. Halwais come from the Vaishya caste whose contribution to Indian society is confectionery and making sweets (candies).
I watch the halwai closely as he fixes the drinks. He takes big dollops of yogurt from the large flat earthenware pot, on which he has a block of ice to keep the yogurt cool. The ice is wrapped in a gunny sack to prevent it from melting. Those were the times when small restaurants and dhabbas did not have refrigerators. Things are different today. The yogurt is so thick you can cut through it with a knife. He puts the yogurt into a large stainless steel jug. To this he adds sugar and iced water along with the juice of a couple of lemons. After he quickly blends together the ingredients, he pours the lassi into tall glasses.
Maybe I was hot, sweaty, and dusty, but it was about the best lassi I had ever tasted.
Lassi is a yogurt drink that you can make either sweet or salty or with fruit. It originated in Punjab, and was a smoothie in India long before the world caught up!
Lassi (Yogurt Drink)
Originating in the Punjab, Lassi, is a refreshing, healthy yogurt drink that is common in India, and is now popular all over the world.
Ingredients
- 3 cups plain yogurt (for a thicker lassi, use whole milk yogurt, but you can also use nonfat or low-fat)
- 4 tbsp sugar (or sugar substitute)
- 2 tbsp lemon or lime juice
- 2 cups water
- 2 cups crushed ice
Instructions
- Put all the ingredients with a ½ cup of crushed ice in a blender (or hand whisk) and blend until smooth. Taste for sugar. It should be sweet with a hint of tartness with the lemon/lime juice. Adjust to your taste.
- Pour into tall glasses and serve. You can garnish with some mint leaves or lemon/lime wedges. Personally, I don't like mint leaves as their strong flavor tends to detract from the taste of the lassi.
Notes
Salted Lassi: If you can't have sugar or don't like the sweetness, you can substitute the sugar with salt (to your taste). Add a dash of cinnamon or roasted cumin powder and garnish with fresh, chopped cilantro (coriander) leaves.
Check my website for Mango Lassi, Raspberry Lassi, and Pineapple Lassi. You can also use flavored yogurt to make lassi, but I prefer the taste of lassi made from scratch.
-Halwai Photo by Tiago Rosado on Unsplash
-Lorry Photo by Siddhesh Mangela on Unsplash
We are visiting my husband’s Mamajee (mother’s brother) in Chandigarh. Mamijee (his wife) is busy in the kitchen supervising the meal. I am with her to see if I can lend a hand—and, since I am family, it would be most disrespectful of me to sit like a guest and not ask if I can help! The dal is already boiled, and the lauki (bottle gourd) is being prepared. I watch and try to stay out of the way until I am needed.
Bottle gourd belongs to the family of summer squashes in India like Ridge gourd (Tori) and Indian round gourd (Tinda).
Lauki always makes me think of Loki in Norse Mythology!
Lauki Chana Dal (Bottle Gourd Chickpea Curry)
A North Indian specialty, perfect for a vegetarian main or side dish!
Ingredients
For the Dal
- 1 cup channa dal
- 1 tbsp finely chopped ginger root
- ½ tsp turmeric
- 4 cups water
For the Gourd
- 1 medium gourd, peeled and chopped
- 1 medium onion chopped fine
- 2 medium tomatoes chopped fine
- ½ tsp whole cumin seeds
- 1 serrano chili, sliced in half (optional)
- 1 tsp salt
- ½ tsp turmeric powder
- ¼ tsp red chili powder (optional)
- ½ tsp ground cumin powder
- ¼ tsp garam masala (or to your taste)
- 1½-2 cups water
- 1 tbsp chopped fresh cilantro for garnish (fresh green coriander leaves)
- 3 tbsp cooking oil
Instructions
For the Dal
- Sort and clean the dal well of any grit. Wash, rubbing grains together with your fingers, at least 3 times and soak in water for half an hour, then drain and place in a 4 to 6-quart pot.
- Add 4 cups of water, chopped ginger, 1/4 teaspoon of turmeric, and 1 teaspoon of salt. Set on the stove and cook on high, partially covered, until it comes to a rolling boil. You can remove any froth that surfaces with a spoon.
- Lower heat and let simmer for approximately 40-45 minutes, stirring occasionally until soft and blended. Turn off the heat.
For the Gourd
- Peel and cut the gourd in half, then cut in half again and chop into bite-size bits. If the gourd is more mature, the inside flesh might be a little spongy, and you can remove some of it. Immerse in a bowl of water and set aside.
For the Curry
- Heat oil in a large pot. Add cumin seeds and wait until they sputter and turn brown, about 30 seconds (careful, they burn quickly!).
- Add finely chopped onions and sauté until three-quarters brown, 8-10 mins.
- Add the turmeric powder, cumin, and red chili powder. Stir for 30 seconds, then add the finely chopped tomatoes. Let cook for 4-5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until tomatoes are cooked and start to curl.
- Add the bottle gourd after draining. Stir for about one minute, then add 2 cups of water. Cover and cook until almost done, approximately 15minutes.
- Add to the cooked dal and let boil for another 5-10 minutes so the curry and dal are blended and flavors infused.
- Check for salt. Add more hot water if the consistency is too thick. Sprinkle the garam masala on top and stir.
- Pour into a deep serving dish. Garnish with coriander.
Notes
Serve with plain boiled white rice or rotis.
You can omit the tomatoes—it still tastes good!
Farmers’ Market (Apni Mandi) in Chandigarh by Sarbjit Bahga
I am sorting and cleaning kala channa (desi chickpeas) which are a smaller brown version of garbanzo beans (kabuli channa in India). I plan to soak them overnight to cook the next day.
I recall grocery shopping for them once, straddled on the back seat of a moped. After many practice rounds around the block, I had allowed our ten-year-old son to drive me to the market, which was just around the corner. It was a relatively safe ride as the market was in a cantonment area where military families were given housing accommodation. Since he was never allowed to drive it on his own, he was aware of the privilege. It was a great parental tool for good behavior! Of course, he was eagerly awaiting driving the car, but that was not going to happen any time soon! Driving rules and regulations were not strictly imposed at that time in India, as you can tell!
As with most lentils and beans, chickpeas can be soaked overnight and cooked in several ways. When soaked overnight and sprouted for a few days, they make a power snack. My husband has taken a handful every morning for years.
Kala Channa Curry (Brown Chickpea Curry)
A delicious bean curry of whole brown chickpeas seasoned with tomato, ginger, garlic, and a blend of Indian spices.
Ingredients
- 2 cups dried kala channa (brown chickpeas) (or garbanzo beans)
- 2 tbsp cooking oil
- 2 medium onions, peeled and chopped very fine (or use a food processor)
- 1 green Serrano chili
- 2 tbsp tomato paste (or an 8-oz can of tomato sauce)
- 1 tbsp ginger paste (preferably fresh)
- 1 tbsp garlic paste (preferably fresh)
- Salt to taste
- 6 cups water (or more, depending on the amount of gravy you want)
Whole Spices
- 1 large black cardamom (optional)
- 2 bay leaves
- 2-3 cloves
- 4-5 peppercorns
- 1 small cinnamon stick
Masala
- 2 tsp coriander powder
- 1½ tsp cumin powder
- ½ tsp turmeric powder
- ¼ tsp red chili powder (to your taste)
Garnish
- 1 tbsp chopped fresh cilantro (coriander)
Instructions
- Heat oil in a 4-6 quart pot over medium heat. Add whole spices, stir, then add theonions and sauté until three-quarters brown (about 7-8 minutes).
- Add the ginger and garlic pastes and all the masala powders. Stir 2-3 minutes until fragrant. Remember to scrape the bottom of the pan to prevent sticking and burning. If it does start to stick, you can add 2 tablespoons of water, hot or cold.
- Add the tomato paste with about a ¼ cup water and cook for 3-4 minutes.
- Add the soaked chickpeas and water. Cover and bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer for approximately one hour, stirring every now and then (after about 50 minutes, check to see if the chickpeas are nearly done. If it looks like the water is drying up at any point, add a little more hot water).
- Mash some of the chickpeas against the side of the pan to make a thicker gravy. Cook for another 5 minutes until tender.
- Garnish with the fresh chopped cilantro.
- Serve with plain boiled rice, any Indian style Pilaf, or any kind of flat bread.
Notes
You can boil the beans separately until three-quarters done and then add to the curry masala. Simmer for at least 15-20 minutes more to absorb all the flavors of the curry and cook until the beans are completely done.
If substituting with non-organic, canned garbanzo beans, be sure to rinse them to get rid of preservatives.
You can use bottled ginger and garlic paste instead of fresh.
I like to use a pressure cooker to hasten the process. I just follow the manufacturer’s manual on cooking time for beans.
Cooking time will vary depending on whether you boil the beans first, cook them with the curry mixture, or use cooked canned beans. Remember cooking time also varies depending on the altitude of the place where you live.
My brother is visiting us from the United States. It has been nearly ten years since he left, so I am determined to fix him all the Indian dishes he loves. My husband is teaching at the Institute of Defense Management in Trimulgherry, a part of the military cantonment near the ancient twin cities of Hyderabad and Secunderabad.
Built on the Deccan Plateau in south-central India, the cities are now a huge metropolis. We live in the cantonment area, but I am driving on the Tank Bunk Road to the local fishers at Hussain Sagar Lake. The Tank Bund Road links the two cities. It is my go-to place for fish, as the fish retailers hawk their catch along the roadside curb during the late afternoon. The fish are wrapped in gunny sackcloth and kept in iceboxes to keep them fresh.
My favorite is the silver pomfret which is most common and found abundantly in the seas of the Indo-Pacific area and all along the coast of the Indian subcontinent. Different species of the fish (family Bramidae) are also found in the Atlantic and Pacific. I buy pomfret because I know it did not come from the lake’s murky waters.
There are, of course, many varieties of river and sea fish, but today I choose pomfret. I always have it cooked as soon as I get home, as I do not want to risk refrigerating it. No matter how much I get, by the time we finish eating it is all gone!
I check out the fish to see if they are fresh. The eyes seem clear, and the skin bounces back when pressed. The gills are also moist and reddish. Most importantly, no pongy, fishy smell, just the regular smell of fish.
My favorite fishmonger is there, so I don’t have to haggle back and forth over price. I pick two good fish and have him clean and prep them whole for me. When I get home, my cook will wash them well and slice them into fillets.
I plan to fix Masala Fish Fillets using one of my mama’s recipes. It is a simple recipe, flavorful and tangy with the use of masalas and vinegar.
Masala Fish Fillets (Spiced Fried Fish Fillets)
A simple recipe, flavorful and tangy with the use of masalas (spices) and vinegar.
Ingredients
- 1 lb fish fillets (any fish that is good for frying like cod, halibut, tilapia, catfish, or king mackerel )
- 1 tbsp garlic paste
- 1 tsp turmeric powder
- 1 tsp cumin powder
- ½ tsp chili powder (or to your taste)
- ¾ tsp salt
- ¼ cup vinegar (malt or distilled, or lime/lemon juice)
- ½ tbsp chickpea flour (besan) (or cornstarch)
- 3-4 tbsp cooking oil
Instructions
- Wash the fish well and pat dry. Place in a wide bowl and rub the fillets with the chickpea flour.
- Blend the spices, garlic paste, and vinegar. Coat the fish slices well and marinate for at least 15 minutes.
- Heat oil in a heavy-bottomed frying pan large enough to accommodate the number of fillets you are frying.
- When the oil is well heated, carefully lower the fish slices into the oil. If you have any masala left over, brush or spoon it over the fillet. Let cook for 7-10 minutes, and then carefully turn the fillet over and fry the other side for another 6-7 minutes or till nicely cooked, and the fish starts to flake.
Notes
Serve garnished with lemon wedges.
Goes well with any kind of pilaf, fries, or a wrap.