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I vaguely remember the first time I had Biryani. It was for a special celebration in Bangalore, South India at my grandparents’ home. I remember a houseful of mother’s relatives! For us kids, a large square Dari (cotton carpet) was spread on the floor. Fresh banana leaves, washed and cut into oblongs, were placed before us. Then the women in the family came around, serving us heaped spoons of Biryani. No utensils were provided, and we ate with our fingers (hands duly washed and using the tips of our fingers to scoop up the rice)! It was delicious! Mama always fixed it for New Year’s lunch with Channa Dal Curry and Raita. I continue the tradition when able!

Mama's Biriyani

Prep Time 30 minutes
Cook Time 1 hour 30 minutes
Servings 12 people
A mouth-watering, savory main dish brought to India by the Mughals.

Ingredients

Masala for the Korma

  • 3 tbsp ginger paste                  (freshly ground ginger and garlic are best)
  • 2 tbsp garlic paste 
  • 1 bunch fresh green coriander             (leaves only, remove stems—a bit of stem is okay)
  • 3 tbsp coriander powder          
  • 1 tsp turmeric powder            
  • chili powder to taste

Other Ingredients

  • 5 cups Basmati rice
  • 3 lbs Meat (chicken or beef) (cleaned and set aside)
  • ¾ cup oil (olive, vegetable, or coconut oil)
  • 4-5 large onions
  • 2 fine Serrano chilies (whole, washed and almost slit in half)
  • 4 cinnamon sticks
  • 4 black cardamom (large)
  • 6 green cardamom (small)
  • 6 cloves
  • 4 tomatoes (finely chopped)
  • 1 tbsp poppy seeds (ground smooth, optional)
  • 1 cup yogurt (whisked smooth)
  • 1 can coconut milk (or the fleshy, white part of 1 fresh coconut ground smooth the poppy seed)
  • 2 tbsp mint leaves  (finely chopped)
  • salt to taste
  • 2 limes (juice only)
  • 2 cups peas and carrots
  • cashews and raisins (for garnish)

Instructions 

To Prepare

  • Gather all the ingredients before you start. Wash and soak the 5 cups of rice for 15 minutes before you drain it.
  • Heat ¾ cup of oil. You need extra when you make biryani.
  • Add the cinnamon, cardamom, and cloves. Add cut onions and slit green chilies. When half fried (about 10 mins) add meat and salt to taste. Cook in its own juice for about 10-15 minutes until the meat is no longer pink.
  • Add the ground ginger, garlic, spice powders, and green coriander. Fry until the masala is done. That is, until the water has evaporated and the oil starts to surface at the bottom of the pan. It takes about 10-15 mins.
  • Now add enough water to cover and cook the meat until three-quarters cooked. (You can use a pressure cooker if you like but make sure the meat is not overcooked). When the meat is three-quarters cooked, and the oil starts to surface on top, remove the pan from the stove. Drain out the excess oil into a measuring cup or bowl. Set aside.
  • Put the meat back on the stove. Add the beaten yogurt, tomatoes, coconut, and cook until you have a nice thick gravy, about 10-15 minutes. Remove from stove.
  • To the excess oil you set aside, add the finely cut mint and juice of the lime. Set aside.

For the Rice

  • Boil 10 cups of water (two cups water to one cup rice). When the water comes to a boil, pour the rice into the boiling water, and add the salt.
  • Add the peas and carrots, if desired.
  • When the is almost cooked, drain off all the water. (To test if the rice is almost cooked, remove a few grains and press on them between your finger tips. Most of it will feel soft, but should still feel grainy).

To Cook the Biriyani

  • Turn oven on to 250°.
  • In a large roasting pan or oven-safe pot, place a layer of rice, then a layer of the korma curry. Continue in this fashion until the korma is used. The last layer should be the rice. Now drizzle the oil, lime, and mint mixture all over the rice. Cover the dish and cook in oven for 20 minutes.  
  • Pull the roaster out of the oven, uncover, and with a fork gently toss the rice so it is blended well. Test if the rice is completely cooked. If it still feels grainy, then reduce turn the oven to 200° degrees and cook the rice until it is done.

Notes

Biryani is served with Channa Dal (Split Chick Pea) Curry and any raita of your choice.
Raita is yogurt mixed with any of the following, grated cucumber, grated coconut, or a fresh chopped blend of onion, tomato, green chili, and cilantro.  
Making It Easy:
Sometimes I make it easy on myself and after making the korma, I just add the rice and the required amount of water. I learned this from a biryani recipe my eldest sibling makes. Just make sure you also take into consideration the amount of gravy when pouring in the water. If there is too much liquid, then the biriyani becomes a curried rice porridge! 
Course: Main Course
Cuisine: Indian
Keyword: biriyani

Streets of Bangalore Photo by Andrea Leopardi on Unsplash

Sunday was our day for Pepper Water, a South Indian dish called Dal Rusum. Mama being from the south and Father from the North, coupled with the fact that we traveled all over the Indian subcontinents as Military brats, gave us a whole range of Indian cuisine to sample. Further, my husband being in the Indian Air Force enhanced that culinary adventure further for me.

Rusum was one of our favorite meals growing up. Cook would fix a whole lot of it under Mama’s tutelage. It was served with plain boiled rice and pepper chops. The combination was just plain yummy!

When fixing rusum, be sure to have two 5-6 quart pots and a sieve handy to strain the rusum. Also keep a large skillet or frying pan nearby for tempering. You will need them when boiling the lentil and when tempering it.

Cooking rusum can be tricky when making it the first time. To make things easier for you, have all your ingredients ready before you start. Separate the ingredients in steps 1-4. It will make things less confusing for you.

Dal Rusum (Pepper Water)

Prep Time 15 minutes
Cook Time 1 hour
Servings 6
Rusum (Pepper Water) is a South Indian dish made from crushed pepper, tamarind, lentils, and spices.

Ingredients

  • cups toor/arhar dal (pigeon peas)
  • 1 tsp tumeric powder
  • 1 heaped tsp tamarind paste
  • 1 small pod garlic (or 8 large flakes)
  • 20 whole peppercorns
  • tsp whole cumin seeds
  • 3 cups fresh cilantro (loosely packed cups)
  • 2 medium dried red chilies (broken into bits)
  • 1 tsp black mustard seeds
  • 8 curry leaves (add more less to taste)

Instructions 

Step 1: Preparing the Dal Water

  • Boil the dal in 6-7 cups of water with salt and turmeric until the dal is tender. Approximately 35-40 minutes.
  • Strain the dal through a sieve, pouring the dal liquid into another large pot. Set strained dal aside.

Step 2: Adding the Tamarind Paste

  • Add the tamarind paste to the dal liquid. Taste for tartness and salt. It should be tangy but not sour. Bring to boil for about 5-10 minutes. Turn heat off.

Step 3: First Tempering / Tadka  for Dal Water

  • Coarsely grind the garlic flakes, cumin, fresh green cilantro, pepper corns, and turmeric powder. You can use your chopper, blender, or pestle.
  • Heat about 2 tablespoons of cooking oil in a fairly large saucepan or skillet.
  • Add the coarsely ground mixture and sauté for about a minute or until you can smell the aroma. It doesn't take long! Make sure to stir it often, so it does not burn.
  • Pour this into the dal water. Put the pot back on stove and return to boil. Let it boil for about 10 minutes.
  • Now strain the water again into the other empty pot, making sure to squeeze all the juice out of the tadka mixture so the essence of it is not lost. Your rusum is ready for the second tempering.

Step 4: Second Tempering of the Rusum

  • Heat oil, and add ¾ teaspoon of mustard seeds. Be careful, as they splutter. Now add the 2 dry red chilies and the fresh curry leaves. Stir for about 10 seconds and then pour it over the pepper water.

Tempering / Tadkafor the Dal

  • Same as the rusum. Heat the oil and add the remainder of the mustard seeds, red chilies, and curry leaves. Stir for about 10 seconds and then pour over the dal. Toss gently into the dal.
  • Serve the rusum/pepper water and dal along with meat pepper fry and plain boiled rice.

Notes

To make your own tamarind paste: Take a golf-sized lump of freshly peeled tamarind, place in a cup of warm water, then extract the tamarind juice by squeezing the pulp out into a bowl, and then strain the thick juice.
Since different brands of Tamarind vary in tartness, start with a little less than the tamarind called for. If it’s not tangy enough for your taste, then adjust to your liking. If by some chance it gets too sour, don't panic. Just boil a half cup more of the lentil and add it to the Rusum.
I now prefer to add the strained dal back into the rusum after I strain the first tadka. That way, I do not have to temper the dal separately.
You may want to set the table with soup bowls and spoons for easier handling of the pepper water and rice.
You can also drink this as a spicy soup-especially when you have a cold or recovering from a bout of flu. The tanginess, garlic, cilantro and pepper takes care of any residual yukiness !! I remember mom used to have Cook fix it anytime we were recovering from being sick. It tasted so good!
 
Course: Main Course
Cuisine: Indian, South Indian
Keyword: pepper, rusum, tamarind

 

 

We are staying at our maternal grandparents’ home. My twin and I, barely 5 years old, are imitating the tight rope walkers we saw at the circus a few days ago. We are walking along the top of the short ledge that runs along the back patio, barely a foot off the ground. But Grandpa yells for us to get down. I am almost at the end of my tight rope walk and pretend not to hear him. He yells once more, I make it to the end and hop off. He is probably concerned about our safety, but at that age, I don’t see it!

I run into the kitchen to escape any more yelling. Bodi-amma, the cook and general housekeeper, is squatting in front of the large silbatta (grind stone) grinding all the ingredients to fix the coconut chutney for our dosa lunch. I sit cross-legged across from her and watch as she moves the round pestle forward and backward across the rectangular stone, pausing now and then to scoop the chutney to the center of the grindstone. She continues the process until she has a nice, smooth chutney. I can’t wait to eat it with dosas!

Coconut Chutney

Prep Time 20 minutes
Cook Time 10 minutes
Total Time 30 minutes
Servings 6
A delicious South Indian dish that goes well with dosas, idlis, parathas, or on crackers!

Ingredients

  • 12 oz fresh grated coconut (frozen packets are available at the Indian grocery store)
  • 1 green Serrano chili (more or less, according to taste)
  • 4 flakes garlic (medium, peeled and washed or 1 tbsp garlic paste)
  • 1 tbsp ginger, peeled and washed, or 1 tbsp ginger paste
  • 2 cups fresh cilantro leaves (cleaned and washed)
  • 1 tsp tamarind paste (Add more for tartness)
  • ¾ tsp salt (or to taste)
  • ¾ cup water (add more or less water, depending on the consistency you prefer)

For Tadka / Tempering

  • ½ tsp black mustard seeds
  • ½ tsp urd dal
  • ½ tsp channa dal
  • 1 tbsp coconut oil
  • 6-8 fresh curry leaves
  • 1 dry red chili (optional)

Instructions 

  • Grind or blend all the ingredients (except the coconut) into a smooth paste.
  • To the smooth paste, add the shredded coconut and grind or blend until smooth, but still a little textured.
  • Pour into a serving bowl and add the tempering.  

Tadka / Tempering

  • Rinse and drain the dals in a small strainer. Blot dry with a paper towel.
  • Heat oil in a sauté pan on medium heat. When hot, add the red chili. As soon as it starts to darken, add the mustard seeds. As they start to splutter in about less than 15 seconds, add the curry leaves and the dals.
  • Shake or stir until the dals start to darken in color, approximately 15-20 seconds. Pour over the coconut chutney and gently stir to mix the tadka into the chutney.    
  • Enjoy it with dosas, idlis, parathas, or dal and rice. It is also good with Allu Bonda.
Course: Side Dish
Cuisine: Indian, South Indian
Keyword: chutney, coconut

Silbatta photo by Aditya Gupta on Unsplash