It is summer. Dad is stationed at Srinagar, Kashmir, and we are taking a road trip in a military transport to join him for our summer vacation. It is a long and arduous trip in the hot, sweltering heat across the northern plains of India. The canvas flaps on the sides of the truck are rolled up slightly to allow for some air.
Finally, we start to climb into the mountains. The air starts to get cooler. We climb higher. Now, it starts to really cool down. The two jawans (soldiers) escorting us on the trip pull down the canvas flaps, and tighten them all around, so the cold breeze is blocked. It is dusk. We reach the highest point of our journey which is a little township (if you can call it that) called Kud, and park outside the Dak bungalow (a government building, a relic from the British Raj used as rest houses).
We pile out of the truck. It is unexpectedly windy and freezing. We had not anticipated the cold and still have our jackets in the suitcases. Kud is a little over 6,000 feet in elevation, but the summer heat of the plains was still in our brain. The two younger siblings, shivering in their short cotton dresses, grab what they can of Mama’s sari palla (scarf portion of the sari), and try and wrap themselves in it. We, older ones, in our salwar and kurta, are slightly better off. A junior officer is waiting and hurries us into the Dak bungalow where a fire is burning in the marble fireplace in the drawing room. Oh, the bliss of thawing out! We are served hot chai and cookies.
Dinner is served within an hour. Allu Poori (or Allu Tak as we call it), accompanied by hot puffed pooris. It is delicious. The memory of it still stays with me.
Allu Poori (Curried Potatoes)
Allu poori is boiled potatoes tempered with whole cumin seeds and spices in a tomato sauce that goes with pooris, a deep-fried Indian flatbread.
Ingredients
- 6 medium potatoes, boiled, peeled, and diced into bite sized cube
- ¼ cup yellow onions or shallots chopped fine
- 1 tsp fresh ginger chopped
- ¼ tsp chili powder or to taste
- ¼ tsp turmeric powder
- 1 tsp cumin powder (or ½ teaspoon cumin seeds)
- 2 tbsp tomato paste (or 3 fresh tomatoes chopped fine or puréed)
- 2-3 tbsp cooking oil
- 1 small or medium green chili (jalapeño), whole or chopped (optional)
- 3 cups hot water (approximately)
- 1 tsp salt or to your taste
- ¼ tsp garam masala (optional)
Instructions
- Heat oil in a deep skillet or wok. Toss in cumin seeds, stir for 30 seconds.
- Add the green chili and ginger, stir for 30 seconds.
- Add the onions and sauté for 3-5 minutes until they start to turn slightly brown.
- Add turmeric, chili, and cumin powders.
- Stir the powders for less than 30 seconds, and then add the tomato paste.
- Cook for about 2-3 minutes to get the raw taste of tomatoes out. If using fresh tomatoes, cook until they turn pulpy, approximately 10-15 mins.
- Now add the potatoes into the onion-tomato spice mixture and add approximately 3 cups of water.
- Add salt. Give the mixture a nice stir, then cover, and bring to a boil.
- Simmer for 10 minutes.
- Uncover and with the back of your spoon mash some of the potatoes up against the sides of the pan to get a thickish gravy.
- Monitor the water you add. The gravy has to be a thick gravy and not watery. If it gets too thick you can add more water, if too thin, uncover and cook until it thickens
- Turn off heat and let sit 5 -10 minutes.
- Pour into a serving dish and garnish with chopped cilantro and sprinkle with garam masala
- Serve with pooris, pita bread, tortillas or parathas. This dish goes well with any kind of flat bread.
Notes
Garnish: 1/4 cup fresh green cilantro {coriander} washed and chopped fine. Use more of the leaves and discard most of the stalks (or save the stalks for dals or soups).
Srinagar Photo by SOURAV BHADRA on Unsplash
Indians don’t generally eat spinach as a salad. It is almost always cooked into a sabzi, the most famous being Palak Paneer. It is also used in dal, parathas, or pakoras. Since I love potatoes, it usually gets incorporated into many of my sabzis. Adding potatoes to greens like spinach and fenugreek also helps in stretching the dish to feed unexpected, drop-in guests. Indians always welcome company, any time of the day.
I use fresh spinach when available, and, personally, I find that very little difference in taste when I use frozen spinach. The plus side to frozen spinach is that there is no tedious cleaning or chopping of the vegetable. Just defrost and go!
If you do go the fresh route, before you wash the spinach, keep the bundle intact, heads together and stalks together. Then chop off the extra long stalk and discard. Immerse the spinach in a deep bowl of water, then dip and immerse several times to get all the grit out. I change the water once. Now rinse it in a colander, moving it back and forth, or use your faucet spray if you have one. Drain and chop moderately fine.
If you’re using pre-washed spinach in a salad bag, just rinse it before you chop and cook it. I suggest this as I’ve found dirt in “pre-washed” leaves too many times!
Palak Allu Sabzi (Sautéed Spinach and Potatoes)
Sautéed spinach and potatoes are enhanced with spices to create a healthy, vegan dish.
Ingredients
- 1 lb frozen chopped spinach (or fresh spinach, washed and chopped)
- 2 medium potatoes (peeled and quartered)
- ½ medium yellow onion (or 1 shallot, peeled and diced)
- 1 whole red chili pepper (optional, more or less to taste)
- ½ tsp tumeric powder
- 1 tsp cumin powder
- salt (to taste)
- 2 tbsp cooking oil
- 4 tbsp water (½ cup of water if you are using fresh spinach)
- 2 tsp desi ghee (clarified butter, optional)
- ¼ tsp garam masala (optional)
Instructions
- On medium heat, heat the oil in wok or skillet. Add the red chili (if you want a spicy taste) and chopped onion. Sauté till ¾ brown. Approximately 5-7 mins.
- Add the turmeric and cumin powder. Stir a few times, and then add the potatoes. Cook for about 5 minutes, stirring gently to coat the potatoes with masala.
- Add the spinach and salt, and then add just enough water to cook the potatoes. Turn the heat down, cover the pan, and cook on low for 5 minutes.
- Remove the lid and cook for another 7-8 minutes until the potatoes are cooked and the moisture has almost evaporated. Do not let it dry out.
- Once the potatoes are done, remove the skillet from the heat and sprinkle garam masala over the sabzi. Cover and let rest at least 5 minutes for the dish to absorb all the flavors.
- Serve with tortillas, rotis, or rice and as an accompaniment to any dal or curry.
Notes
If you are using frozen spinach, it might have enough moisture to cook the potatoes. For fresh spinach, you may have to add about 1/2 cup of water initially. So keep that in mind when you are adding water. You don't want the potatoes to get mashed in with the spinach! I don't mind eating it with the potatoes mashed in the spinach, but the presentation of the dish won't be as appetizing!
Variations: You can also substitute baby red potatoes, scrubbed and halved or quartered, with skin on. A half cup of cooked Garbanzo beans (kabli channa) are very tasty mixed into the spinach, too. Omit the potatoes to fix a plain spinach sabzi. .
Variations: You can also substitute baby red potatoes, scrubbed and halved or quartered, with skin on. A half cup of cooked Garbanzo beans (kabli channa) are very tasty mixed into the spinach, too. Omit the potatoes to fix a plain spinach sabzi. .
We are returning from our trip to Chandigarh to see my mother-in-law. The bus is crowded as usual, but my husband manages to get me a window seat, and then sits down next to me. My mother-in-law has packed us parathas, despite my polite protests. “No, no,” she admonishes. “You must always carry something with you, as you never can tell when you will get hungry.” I am a newlywed and dare not argue with her. She wraps the parathas in foil and adds some pickle in each. I add a bunch of napkins to the plastic bag she hands me. I am not sure how I am going to manage eating that on the ride home, but you don’t say no to your Indian mother-in-law!
Two hours into the ride, I am very grateful for her insistence. The bus driver has stopped at the next town, and the wayside vendors’ foods look seriously dubious. Quickly, I open the packed goodies, and we feast on the parathas. My husband brings hot chai and I happily sip on this delicious beverage as I munch on my parathas.
Parathas are similar to a sautéed tortilla, either plain or filled with spicy potato (allu), or you can make it out of cauliflower (phool gobi), or Diakon-Japanese radish (Moolee). The spices in the stuffing vary. They make a good brunch and vegan meal and are very filling.
Allu Paratha: Indian Potato Stuffed Bread
This is a delicious spiced potato-stuffed Indian whole wheat bread that can be a meal in itself, but it also makes a delicious side for dinner or breakfast.
Ingredients
Filling
- Oil for sautéing the parathas (peanut oil, canola oil, or vegetable oil)
- 5-6 medium boiled potatoes (peeled and mashed)
- ½ tsp Amchoor powder (mango powder, available at any Indian grocery store)
- ½ tsp roasted Zeera powder (cumin powder) (optional)
- 1-2 green chilies, finely chopped (depending on how spicy you want your parathas to be!)
- ¼ tsp chili powder (optional, to taste)
- 1 small onion ( chopped very fine)
- 1 tbsp cilantro (finely chopped)
- salt to taste
Dough
- 3 cups Durham flour
- ¼ tsp salt
- 1 cup water to knead dough (you may need a bit more than 1 cup)
Instructions
- Sift flour and salt. Make a well in the center of sifted flour, then pour half the water in and mix. Continue to add water till the flour is moist and knead dough for about 10 minutes until it is soft and pliant and no longer sticky. You can knead dough in an electric mixer.
- Let rest for about half an hour to one hour.
- Roll out two golf-sized balls into 4" rounds. Place about 2 tbsp of mixture on one of the round flatbreads and spread evenly. Place the other rolled flatbread over it and pat down lightly making sure edges are sealed. Gently roll out to about 6" in diameter.
- Sprinkle a little dry flour on top in case it starts to stick while rolling.
Alternate Filling Method
- Take a slightly larger piece of dough and roll it into a ball. Now flatten it with your palms. Add a tablespoon or two of the potato mixture on the top center of the dough. Cover the mixture by pulling on the sides of the dough and press the dough together on the top so that you have a ball of dough with the potato in the center. Flatten this and roll it out like a tortilla.
To Cook
- Heat flat frying pan or Indian tava on medium heat. Place the rolled-out paratha on it, and cook until you start to see little bubbles on the top side. If the pan is hot enough, this takes about two minutes.
- Carefully flip the paratha over with a spatula, and cook the other side.
- Now pour about a teaspoon or more of oil on the top half of the paratha and spread it evenly.
- Flip the paratha over again and oil the other side the same way. Cook till golden brown on both sides.
- Serve warm with a dollop of butter on the paratha, and plain yogurt and pickle on the side.
Chandigarh Bus Photo via Chandigarh Transport Undertaking
We are staying at our maternal grandparents’ home. My twin and I, barely 5 years old, are imitating the tight rope walkers we saw at the circus a few days ago. We are walking along the top of the short ledge that runs along the back patio, barely a foot off the ground. But Grandpa yells for us to get down. I am almost at the end of my tight rope walk and pretend not to hear him. He yells once more, I make it to the end and hop off. He is probably concerned about our safety, but at that age, I don’t see it!
I run into the kitchen to escape any more yelling. Bodi-amma, the cook and general housekeeper, is squatting in front of the large silbatta (grind stone) grinding all the ingredients to fix the coconut chutney for our dosa lunch. I sit cross-legged across from her and watch as she moves the round pestle forward and backward across the rectangular stone, pausing now and then to scoop the chutney to the center of the grindstone. She continues the process until she has a nice, smooth chutney. I can’t wait to eat it with dosas!
Coconut Chutney
A delicious South Indian dish that goes well with dosas, idlis, parathas, or on crackers!
Ingredients
- 12 oz fresh grated coconut (frozen packets are available at the Indian grocery store)
- 1 green Serrano chili (more or less, according to taste)
- 4 flakes garlic (medium, peeled and washed or 1 tbsp garlic paste)
- 1 tbsp ginger, peeled and washed, or 1 tbsp ginger paste
- 2 cups fresh cilantro leaves (cleaned and washed)
- 1 tsp tamarind paste (Add more for tartness)
- ¾ tsp salt (or to taste)
- ¾ cup water (add more or less water, depending on the consistency you prefer)
For Tadka / Tempering
- ½ tsp black mustard seeds
- ½ tsp urd dal
- ½ tsp channa dal
- 1 tbsp coconut oil
- 6-8 fresh curry leaves
- 1 dry red chili (optional)
Instructions
- Grind or blend all the ingredients (except the coconut) into a smooth paste.
- To the smooth paste, add the shredded coconut and grind or blend until smooth, but still a little textured.
- Pour into a serving bowl and add the tempering.
Tadka / Tempering
- Rinse and drain the dals in a small strainer. Blot dry with a paper towel.
- Heat oil in a sauté pan on medium heat. When hot, add the red chili. As soon as it starts to darken, add the mustard seeds. As they start to splutter in about less than 15 seconds, add the curry leaves and the dals.
- Shake or stir until the dals start to darken in color, approximately 15-20 seconds. Pour over the coconut chutney and gently stir to mix the tadka into the chutney.
- Enjoy it with dosas, idlis, parathas, or dal and rice. It is also good with Allu Bonda.
Silbatta photo by Aditya Gupta on Unsplash
Today being Sunday, my husband and I have been binge-watching taped shows all afternoon. Evening tea is over, and I start thinking about dinner. The fridge yields a large bowl of cooked rice. Always looking for ways to turn over leftovers into a new dish, I decide to fix Tomato Rice. I normally serve it with masala fish, fish curry, or a curried dal.
I decide to take the easy way out and serve it with some frozen marinated fish I picked up while grocery shopping. This dish can also be used as a side for meals prepared with a western flavor. It pairs well with most cooking styles of meat, fish, or poultry. You can omit the curry leaves.
With the fish and tomato rice, I fix a garden salad to complete the meal, and Voila! dinner is served!
Tomato Rice (Tamatar Chawal)
A savory rice tossed with tomatoes and spices that goes well as a side dish to complement any meal.
Ingredients
- 4 cups cooked long-grained white rice (like Basmati or Jasmine )
- 4 medium tomatoes (diced )
- 1 medium yellow onion (or shallots, diced)
- ½ tsp black mustard seeds
- 10 fresh curry leaves (optional, available at an Indian grocery store)
- 1-2 medium green chilies, diced (to your taste)
- 1 tsp salt (to your taste)
- 1 tbsp fresh green cilantro (chopped finely)
- 2 tbsp cooking oil
Instructions
- In a 10-12" frying pan or wok, heat the oil on medium heat. When hot, add the mustard seeds, watch out for the splutter! About 30 seconds.
- Add the curry leaves and green chilies. Stir for 30 seconds.
- Add the onions. Sauté for 3-4 minutes until translucent.
- Add the tomatoes. Continue to sauté stirring occasionally for 5-6 minutes, then add the rice.
- Sauté for another 10 minutes until the rice is nice and hot and the onions and tomato mixture are well incorporated into the rice. The juice from the tomatoes should leave the rice moist but not soggy.
- Spoon into dish and garnish with cilantro.
Notes
If you're using cold rice from the refrigerator, break up any lumps. I prefer to do this with my fingers beforehand or while adding the rice as I am able to make sure all the rice is separated well.
Variations:
1. Add 1 cup of cooked peas and carrots after tomatoes are done. Stir for a minute and then the rice in. You can also use any canned drained bean of your choice instead of the peas and carrots
2. In a separate bowl, whisk 4 eggs. After the tomatoes are cooked, add the beaten eggs. Scramble the eggs in the tomato mixture, and then add the rice. I also add the peas and carrots, which makes it an easy, one-dish meal.
The evening air is a little chilly as we head into the early days of winter. Our son is busy playing outside with the neighbor’s kids. My cook walks in from her quarters at the back of the house, ready to fix evening tea. My husband is a little late, so I tell her not to worry, I will take care of it, and she can come to fix the rotis (phulkas and chappatis) for dinner. I open the refrigerator to take out the milk for chai and notice a cup of cooked basmati sitting in the back of the refrigerator from two days ago. Ever one to recycle food before it gets bad, I decide to fix kheer for dessert. I have enough milk, and there is a cup of clotted cream that I have been gathering these past few days.
The milk is delivered from the local doodhwala (milkman), who rides in on his bike with two huge milk cans of fresh milk tethered to either side of the metal back seat. It always amazes me how he manages to balance those heavy-laden cans that are strapped to his bicycle. He arrives diligently twice a day, morning and evening, ringing his bicycle bell loud and clear to announce his arrival. He dips a measured ladle with a large handle into the can and pours the milk into the dekchi (a flat-bottomed cooking pot) held out to him. Since it is not pasteurized, the milk has to be boiled.
After I pasteurize the milk, and once it has cooled completely, I gather the thick layer of cream that forms on top (clotted cream). I use the cream in desserts, churn it into homemade butter, or convert the butter into desi ghee (clarified butter). One of my favorite ways to have the cream is to whip it until it is smooth and then add a large dollop to my cup of coffee (with milk and sugar, of course!). I also like to mix it with jam and slather it over a slice of bread. We can buy the “machine milk,” as the factory-pasteurized, store-bought milk is called, but there is nothing like fresh milk!
Rice Kheer is a very easy-to-make rice pudding, but it is tedious as you have to stay around the stove and stir the kheer often. Since it is my day off, I have nothing else to occupy my time, so I move into the kitchen and start on the rice kheer. With luck, it should be ready before my husband arrives!
Rice Kheer (Rice Pudding)
A creamy, easy-to-make rice pudding with cardamom, raisins, and almonds.
Ingredients
- 1 cup cooked rice
- 2 cups whole milk
- ½ cup clotted cream (or ¾ cup half & half)
- ½ cup sugar
- ½ tsp crushed cardamom
- 1 tbsp golden raisins (optional)
- 2 tbsp sliced or slivered blanched almonds (or cashew nuts if you prefer)
- 1 tsp rose water (optional)
- 10 blanched whole almonds or pistachios (for garnish)
Instructions
- In a large, heavy-bottomed pan, pour in the milk, sugar, and cooked rice. Place over medium heat and bring to a boil.
- Reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes, stirring often. Make sure the milk and rice are not sticking to the bottom of the pan.
- Now add the cardamom, raisins, almonds, and clotted cream.
- Continue cooking on low, stirring frequently, until the kheer thickens and the rice is creamy.
- Do a taste test – if you want to add more cardamom or sugar, you can do so.
- Pour into a serving bowl, stir in rose water if you would like, and garnish with nuts. Serve warm or chilled.
Notes
If you are lactose intolerant or vegan, you can use almond or oat milk. To get a creamier texture, grind some blanched almonds into a paste and add it to the kheer while cooking.
Milkman Photo by Phil DuFrene on Unsplash